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THE 

PLANTER'S GUIDE 



FOR 



CULTIVATING AND CURING 



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CONTAINING yiiACTICAZ INFOJtMATION, FROM THE SELEC- 
TION OF THE SEED-BED TO TSE FREFAItATION OF 
THE CROP FOR 3IARKET. AISO, INTERESTING IN- 
FORMATION AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING 



THE 




PRESENTED BY 

THE SHELTON TOBACCO CURING COMPANY, 

OF ASHEVILLE, MORTH CAROLINA. 



E. J. ASTON, Secretary. 



V. K. SPEAR. President. 



Gctchell Brothers, Printers, 253 Washington St., Boston, Mass. 



7 9^f^ 



INTRODUCTION. 



In publishing and circulating tliis Pamphlet, our object is to call the atten- 
tion of Tobacco Growers to the Shelton Tobacco Hanger; but, at the same 
time, it has been our aim in preparing it, to collect the best practical and most 
reliable information possible ; and, in fixct, to make it what its title claims, 
'^ The Planter's Guide." 

To accomplish this, we have consulted some of the most successful Tobacco 
Planters ; the result of which is, instead of one man's ideas on this subject, 
we present you with the combined experience of many. We have also con- 
sulted the following excellent publications on the Cultivation and Curing of 
Tobacco, and acliuowledge our indebtedness to their Authors and Publish- 
ers : " Reports of the Department of Agriculture," published at the Govern- 
ment Printhig Office, Washington, D.C. ; '' Tobacco Culture," published by 
Orange Judd & Co., Xew York ; " How Tobacco is Raised and Prepared for 
Mai-ket," publislied by the Southern Fertilizing Company, Richmond, Va., 
and " Slielton's Prize Essay on the Culture and Management of Tobacco." 

Our Patent Hanger is the invention of Mr. Samuel C. Shelton, who is well 
known as the flrst successful tobacco grower in Western North Carolina. 
This invention is destined to supply a long-felt want which none were better 
aware of or better prepared to meet than the Inventor ; he having had twenty- 
five years' experience in cultivating, curing and manufacturing tobacco. For 
exhibiting the best Leaf Tobacco lie has received the following awards : — 

First Pfp.ininm at BMeigh, North Carolina, 1871. 

'• •' Bichmond, Virginia, 1872. 

" " •• Vienna Exposition, 1873. 

For information concerning the advantages of the Hanger we refer you to 
page 13 ; for instructions in making and using, to the pages following, in- 
cluding articles on " Preparations for Curing and Stringing," "Gatliering the 
Crop," and '' Stringing the Leaves." The results of "' Experiments in Weight," 
'•Testimonials," and other information of interest, may be found on the clos- 
ing pages of this Pamphlet. 

All of wliich is i-espectfully submitted by the 

SHELTON TOBACCO CURING COMPANY. 

Copies of this Pamphlet sent free on application to the Company. 



THE 

PLANTER'S GUIDE 




FOR 



CultivatinQT and Curinor Tobacco. 



(CULTIVATION OF TOBACCO. 

The cultivation of tobacco in the United States has become so ex- 
tensive as to embrace at least forty-two States and Territories, which 
produce an annual crop of about three hundred million pounds, with 
a value to the producers of at least forty million dollars. 

Therefore it is a matter of great importance to the planter, how to 
cultivate and prepare it for market in the best manner, and at the 
least possible expense. 

After making careful observations, we believe that tobacco, with 
skilful culture and management, is the most remunerative of any 
crop grown, and a poor business if grown and handled without the 
application of those principles and appliances which extensive expe- 
rience has proved to be the best adapted to the end desired. 

VARIETIES OF TOBACCO. 

Loudon enumerates fourteen different species of tobacco, of which 
only one, the Nicotiana Tabaceum., is generally cultivated. Of this 
species there are many varieties, each possessing qualities supposed 
to be derived from climate, soil, and modes of cultivation. 

Few, if any, plants are so much affected by the peculiarities of the 
soil on which it is grown, by circumstances of fertilization and mode 
of curing, as tobacco. For example, the Broad Leaf Orinoco, when 
cultivated on the rich and highly manured lands of Kentucky, pro- 
duces the dark, strong-flavored " shipping tobacco ;" and when grown 
on the light gray soil of Virginia or North Carolina, with but little or 
no manure, and cured in a close barn with artificial heat, will produce 
the bright " wrappers" for which these States are so famous. 



The variety known as Connecticut Seed Leaf is grown principally 
in Massachusetts, Connecticut, New York, Pennsylvania and Ohio, 
and is used in the manufacture of cigars, both for fillers and wrappers. 
Florida, portions of Ohio, Pennsylvania and other States, produce the 
Cuba, which is also used in the manufacture of cigars. Maryland, 
Virginia, North Carolina, Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri and other 
States, cultivate many varieties, prominent among which are the Big 
and Little Orinoco (or Broad and Narrow Leaf Orinoco), Big and 
Little Frederick, Blue and Yellow Pryor, Big Stem, White Stem, 
Gooch, and numerous other kinds that bear different names in different 
localities ; and though mostly hybrids, they each possess some good 
qualities which recommend them to the growers. 

SEED. 

Whatever the variety cultivated, it is very important that you have 
good seed for sowing. In order to secure this hereafter, a few of the 
earliest and most promising plants should be selected from the seed- 
bed, transplanted in some favorable spot, and carefully attended 
throughout the season. In time these should be pruned of all except 
the large leaves, and only the two topmost branches left to bloom. 
These plants should be carefully suckered, and about the first of Octo- 
ber, every pod not thoroughly ripe, plucked off and thrown away, and 
the others gathered and put in a dry place to cure. When dry, the 
seed should be rubbed out, sifted, and placed in a dry vessel, and kept 
where no dampness can reach them. Seed preserved in this manner 
will keep for years. By giving a little extra attention to your seed- 
plants, you can increase the yield and improve the quality of your 
tobacco. 

SELECTION AND PREPARATION OF PLANT-BEDS. 

In selecting a place for plant-beds, remember that you wish to 
obtain early and vigorous plants ; therefore, take a rich, warm hillside, 
protected by timber or otherwise. Red lands are usually unsuited 
for this purpose. Never use wet or cold land. After finding a suita- 
ble place, select a dry time during the month of December or Janu- 
arj^, — the sooner the better, — rake off the leaves, lay down skids 
(about three inches in diameter), three feet apart, across which lay a 
bed of wood five or six feet wide, and high enough to burn for about 
an hour and a half and 3'et leave a sufficient quantity to remove and 
kindle in another place. 



After the fire has burned the length of tuue specified, move it the 
width of the first layer, then throw on brush, a good bed of wood, and 
continue as before. Every farmer ought to provide himself with iron 
hooks for pulling plant-bed fires. If it is possible to injure land by 
hard burning, we have never experienced it ; and think that where one 
bed is injured by burning, ten are injured for the want of it. For 
every ten thousand plants required, there ought to be at least ten 
yards square of plant-bed. A bed of this size will supply more than 
the number mentioned, but it is much better to have some for j'our 
neighbor than to be under tlie necessity of begging plants. 

After burning, the land should remain untouched a few weeks, that 
the rains and frosts may assist in pulverizing the soil ; then with a 
mattock, dig up the bed without turning it over, and pulverize thor- 
oughly with a hoe and rake. Eemove all the roots, spread a light 
coating of stable manure, chop it in, rake again, and the bed is 
ready for sowing. A large tablespoonful of seed to the ten j'ards 
square is enough to sow. This should be carefully mixed with 
sifted ashes, about half of it sown one Ava}', and the other half by 
walking across the first sowing. By tliis the seed will be more regu- 
larly distributed. After seeding, the land should be rolled or trodden 
until it is smooth. Now is the time to manure. We consider horse 
manure collected under cover (and free from litter or grass seed) to 
be the best for this purpose. Chop it fine, and spread a coating (sa}'' 
half an inch or more) evenly over the bed. This should be the last 
manuring unless the spring is very dr}'', when a light top-dressing 
occasionally will be beneficial. 

As to the use of guano on plant-beds, we are not prepared to rec- 
ommend it as highly as stable manure. We will add, that in the 
absence of this manure, a liglit dressing of plaster will be of service ; 
but if 3"ou have good stable manure, " let well enough alone ; " for 
if these directions as to land and management are followed, there is 
about as much chance to fail in plants as to fail of going to sleep 
at night after a hard day's work burning land. 

About three weeks after sowing, the bed should again be rolled or 
trodden, and covered with fine brush twigs to prevent its drying up, 
and protect it from the frost. The brush should not be removed until 
the plants are large enough to nearly cover the ground. 

There are few circumstances under which a plant-bed in the right 
locality, well burnt and manured, should be Avatered. We are dis- 
posed to think that watering is useless unless the spring is very dry. 



PREPARATION OF NEW LAND. 

First take up every growth not too large to grub, and throw them 
into heaps. Then cut the small trees, the brush of which throw on 
the grub heaps ; then cut and remove the larger timber. After the 
ground has been cleaned oft" it should be coultered at least three 
times ; then harrow and rake it to pulverize the soil and remove the 
roots. It should now be laid off at a distance of three feet each way 
and hilled. The hilling is very important, as a plow in new land will 
not prepare it right, and " whatever is w^orth doing is worth doing 
well." The manuring of new land, though troublesome, paj^s well. 

We would recommend it to be applied in the hill if the land is 
rough, as broadcast will waste much of it the first year. Thin ridge 
land will produce a beautiful crop with a tablespoonful of guano to 
the hill. The second year it may be manured as other land ; for if the 
first year's work is well done, it will be prepared to receive manure 
broadcast. New land should be hilled at least three weeks before 
transplanting, and while the land is moist, so that the soil will become 
compact enough to retain moisture, that the plant may thrive without 
rain after being set out. 

PREPARATION OF OLD LAND. 

A graj^, gravelly soil, wdth manure, will make a fine article of to- 
bacco if the manure is propei'ly applied. 

. On common corn land the application of two hundred pounds of 
Peruvian guano per acre (or other equally good fertilizer) applied 
broadcast, wall insure a fine ci-op ; but if the present crop is the ob- 
ject, it may be made with one half this quantity applied in the hill. 

"VVe have succeeded well b^' the application of guano in drills. 
After tlie land has been thoroughly plowed, lay it off in rows three 
feet apart, and in these strew the fertilizer. Plow on each side of the 
rows (turning the furrows in) to cover the manure and form continu- 
ous beds, which should afterwards be nicely hilled. We think all up- 
land should be hilled. About one hundred and twenty pounds of 
guano is enough per acre when drilled. Land for raising shipping to- 
bacco should be more heavily manured ; say for an acre, six or eight 
cords of manure spread broadcast and plowed under ; and in addition 
from two to four hundred pounds of some good fertilizer applied in 
drills. Ashes is a superior fertilizer for tobacco of any kind, on any 
soil. In the Northern and Middle States, where lands are high and 
the seasons short, the growers of tobacco resort to a system of high 



t 

nmnnriiig, for the purpose of forcing the plants to mature and increas- 
ing tiieu' production. With tiicm it is quite common to apply ten or 
tweh^e cords of stable manure, and in addition to this, from two to 
five hundred pounds of guano per acre. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

When the plants are four or five inches high in the beds they are 
ready to set out in the hills. As a rule we prefer a medium-sized 
plant, because the larger the plant the more moisture and sustenance 
it requires, and the small plant is safer, but not so far advanced as 
the medium or larger one. 

After giving that part of the bed from which you wish to remove 
plants a thorough soaking with water, for the purpose of softening 
the soil to prevent the breaking off" of the finer roots, remove the 
plants carefully and wash or shake off all the plant-bed soil in order 
to give them a fresh free start in the new soil. Take great care ol 
them, and do not place so many together that they Avill be crushed or 
bruised, nor keep them out of the ground until the tender roots dry 
up, but take them at once to the field and drop one on each hill, to be 
followed immediately by the planter, who should take hold of it near 
the roots with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand and with the 
right hand smooth down, or in other words, straighten out, the roots. 
Then, with a peg about six inches long, make a hofe in the centre of 
the hill large enough to admit the roots without their touching on the 
sides ; also make it deep enough to take in the longest roots without 
bending them. 

Put in the plant carefully as deep as the bud ; then, with the peg 
and thumb of the left hand, press the soil firmly to the roots, and 
draw the earth around the plant so as to fill the entire hole. The best 
time to transfer the plants from the bed to the hills is when the soil is 
moist, but not so wet as to cause it to bake around the roots and kill 
them, or prevent their getting an early start. If the season is very 
dry, before setting out, take the dry earth from the tops of the hills, 
set the plants late in the day, giving them the benefit of the night 
dew, and before the dew has dried off in the morning, cover them 
with straw, brush, leaves, or anything suitable. 

This covering should remain until rain falls or until the plants get 
a good start. This we consider the best plan that can be adopted 
under these circumstances. We do not approve of watering, because 
it has a tendency to make the soil bake, as mentioned above ; but 
when it becomes necessary, from a continued drought, after watering 



8 

the hill, cover the spot with dry earth, and it will tend to prevent 
baking. 

EEPLANTING. 

This should be attended to as soon as you are satisfied the plant is 
weak or has failed, because j'ou should have as little difference in the 
growth of your plants as possible. By exercising proper care in the 
first planting yon will have but little replanting to do. We believe 
that cramped and crooked roots, air admitted to the roots by careless 
planting, and the bruising and crushing of plants by rough handling, 
are nearly, if not quite, all the causes of a poor " stand," providing 
the land has been properly prepared and is in good condition at the 
time of planting. 

CUT-WORMS. 

Soon after setting out the plants, look sharp for long black or brown 
worms, which burrow in the hills and destroy the plants. Unearth 
and kill them every morning as long as the}'' can be found. They 
seldom trouble new land to an}' great extent. The best time and 
method we know of for destroying them is to plow up the land during 
the winter and freeze them. 

CULTIVATION^ OF NEW LAND. 

The main secret is to keep it clean and well stirred. In new land 
this may be done by two good workings in the proper time, though a 
third working will often be veiy beneficial. If the land is freshly 
hilled, about two weeks after planting, the hills should be scraped 
down, and a little fresh earth drawn around each plant. About three 
weeks after this it should be hilled up, and in ordinar}- cases this will 
be sufficient, except to keep down the sprouts that may put up. 
Tobacco ought not to be worked after topping, as it will bruise and 
break the leaves. Plowing smooth new land once (at the last work- 
ing) is of service ; but if it is rough and stumpy, keep a plow out of 
it altogether. 

CULTIVATION OF OLD LAND. 

Old land requires more work than new. As soon as the plants get 
sufficient hold, narrow up your cultivator, so as not to disturb the 
roots, and go through it once for the first hoeing. Then cut up the 
remaining grass and weeds with a hoe, and level the soil around the 
plants, stirring it slightly. In ten days or a fortnight, go over it 
again with a plow or cultivator, twice in a row, using a short single- 



9 

tree to avoid injuring the plants. This time you can stir tlie ground 
more freel}' around the plants, and should hill them slightly in hoe- 
ing, being careful ViOt to cover any of the leaves. After this it is 
better to perform all the work with hand labor, in order to save the 
plants from injury. Stir the ground with a hoe as often as necessary 
to keep down the weeds. 



WORMING. 

If the worms are numerous, the plants should be thoroughly exam- 
ined at least twice a week. Destroy not only the worms, but all the 
eggs that can be found ; or, whnt is still better, seek out and destroy 
the flies which deposit these eggs. These flies are gray in color, with 
yellow spots on each side of the bod}', and may be found about sun- 
set flitting about the Aveeds and flowers, extracting their juices by 
means of their peculiar tongue, which is four or five inches in length. 
The Jamestown weed, or " Jimson" weed, as it is commonl}^ called, 
which bears a white, bell-shaped blossom, is ver^- attractive to these 
flies. Many of them maj^ be destroyed by dropping a little of the 
following mixture into these blossoms : One ounce of cobalt, dissolved 
in one X)int of loater and stvee/ened tnith some kind of syru]p. But 
this is equally as fatal to the blossoms as to the flies ; therefore we 
give you the following instructions for making an artificial substitute, 
which will prove to be more durable than the natural flower, and quite 
as effective. The ladies can best perform this work, as they happily 
possess more taste and skill in such matters. 

Procure for their use a quire of white paper and a bottle of mucil- 
age. Then make a small block of suitable size and shape, on which 
to form the cone, and furnish them with a natural flower to imitate. 
If you have no blossom of the Jamestown weed, let them try their 
powers of imitation in making a " morning-glory." After forming 
the cone, clip it around the rim and curl slightly, to make it look as 
much like a flower as possible. Attach them to branches or bushes, 
and place them in your thickest growth of tobacco. They should be 
supplied with a few drops of the poison every evening, and it may 
be necessary to replace the flowers after a heavy rain. By following 
the above instructions you will save much trouble in worming. A 
flock of turkeys will also be found very useful in catching and de- 
stroying worms, and can only be equalled by children to whom pre- 
miums have been oflered. 



10 

TOPPING. 

This operation consists in taking off the top of the plant, and must 
be done for the purpose of concentrating the strength of the land in 
such number of leaves as will best mature. 

It should be performed as soon as the seed-buds show themselves. 

No rule can be given which will apply to all cases, as mucli depends 
on the variety grown, the condition of the soil, and whether your 
crop is well advanced or otherwise. With an early crop on rich soil, 
do not take off more than one or two of the top leaves, if any at all ; 
while oil the contrary, if your soil is poor and crop late, top down to 
that number of leaves which, according to your judgment, will fully 
ripen. The number of leaves to be left on the plant A'aries, in dif- 
ferent sections and under different circumstances, from eight to tiventy. 

PEIMING. 

This consists in removing the lower leaves of the plant to the height 
of five or six inches from the ground ; these are removed for two rea- 
sons. First, if allowed to remain, they will be made worthless by 
coming in contact with the soil. Second, to improve the quality of 
the remaining leaves, — -as in topping. Do not commence priming 
until the principal part of your topping is done ; then continue it reg- 
ularly, and save every leaf with as much care as if it were gold. 
Though light in weight, you will get some as fine tobacco from these 
primings as any in your crop, and it is simplj^ folly to throw them 
away. 

SUCKERING. 

The suckers are small leaves that start from the base of the larger 
ones after the plant has been topped. They make their appearance 
at the top first, and should be continually nipped off as fast as they 
become large enough to get hold of; otherwise they will retard the 
growth and prevent the early maturing of the plant. 

REMAEKS. 

"We have described the operations of worming, topping, priming 
and suckering, separately and in the regular order which they first 
appear ; but they cannot be wholly performed and finally disposed of 
in the same manner. 

Soon after you commence worming, the buds make their appearance 
and claim their share of your attention : then follows the priming and 



11 

suckering. The first suckers will appear in about a week after top- 
ping, and will afterwards require plucking two or three times in the 
same number of weeks. 

The worming must still be attended to. Thus it will be seen that 
two or more of these are continued operations and can be performed 
in connection with each other. To the experienced Tobacco Grow er, 
much that we have written in the way of explanation may seem 
altogether needless ; but our intention is to embod}'-, in this pamphlet, 
all the practical information needed by new beginners, together with 
valuable hints to all Tobacco Growers. 



CONSTRUCTING BARNS. 

SIZE OF BARNS. 

For Coal or Flue curing, we believe in small barns, as the heat can 
be more evenly distributed in them. The old barns (16x16 inside) 
used in the old process will answer the purpose ; though if the barn 
is to be built, we recommend it to be not more than four tiers high, 
placing the lower tier-poles eight feet from the ground, and the height 
between the tiers, about the average length of the leaves 3'ou grow. 
Small farmers might build even smaller ones, say of that size which 
the force they work can fill in one or two days, calculating the hangers 
five inches apart, and a " hand " to fill one hundred hangers per day. 



MATERIALS. 

Logs, well "chinked" and "daubed "with clay, inside and out, 
are probably the best materials for walls ; but in localities where thej' 
cannot be readity procured, any construction which can be made to 
hold the he'at will answer, " Adobe," or bricks dried in the sun 
(made of clay and a small quantity of straw mixed to prevent them 
from cracking), will make a good wall. For tier-poles, use either 
straight poles or sawed lumber 2x4 ; arrange them to extend from 
back to front, and do this while building the walls, if made of logs or 
adobe. The roof can be made of any material which will retain the 
heat. The doorway should be in the middle of the wall (six feet high 
and four feet wide), and to extend to the ground or floor ; furnish it 
with a good close shutter or door. 



12 

FLUES. 

In the consti'iiction of flues, stone of any kind that will not burst 
or crumble when exposed to the heat, brick or sheet-iron covered 
with mortar, cement or clay, to receive and deliver a steady heat, are 
the principal materials used. 

As applied to a tobacco barn, they usually consist of two furnaces 
built inside (near the right and left front corners as you enter), with 
the ends projecting through the walls far enough to allow the feed- 
doors to open from the outside. Connected with these, on the inside, 
are funnels or passages, sixteen or eighteen inches in diameter, which 
extend around three sides of the barn (about two feet from the walls), 
and serve to distribute the heat evenly, and convey the smoke to the 
chimney or outlet. This chimnej', or stem, as commonly arranged, is 
situated at the centre of the rear wall where the pipes or flues meet 
and join it. 

Extend the chimney through the wall, and far enough beyond to 
prevent all danger from sparks. In order to insiu'e a good draught, 
the chimney should be about four inches higher than the mouth of the 
furnace. There arc patent flues in use which have given very good 
satisfaction, and we advise those who intend curing with flues to ex- 
amine them before buildino- the common flue. 



HOUSES FOR AIR-CURING. 

The drying house should be so constructed as to allow the free cir- 
culation of air among the leaves, and protect them, when necessary, 
from the direct action of the sun, wind and rain. Any building will 
answer the purpose which has a good roof, and windows and air-holes 
enough to regulate the circulation. 

In erecting a building especially for this purpose, place a ventilator 
on the roof, and board the sides of the house perpendicularlj', hang- 
ing every other board on hinges. 

The inside should be divided by poles or timbers, into " rooms," to 
accommodate the length of your sticks, and also into tiers, one above 
the other, about two feet apart, more or less, according to the length 
of the leaves grown. 

Before proceeding to the gathering and curing of the crop, we call 
your attention to our 



13 



TOBACCO HANGER, 

Patented April 6, 1S75, 

BY SAMUEL C. SHELTON. 



This device is especiull}' adapted to curing tlie leaves, by gathering 
from the stalk, when fully ripe, and stringing them on the wire attach- 
ment ; thereby avoiding the splitting, cutting, transporting and curing 
of the stalk. 

Every experienced Tobacco Grower realizes more fully each year 
that he is handling at heav}' expense, and material injur}" to the leaf, 
a stalk entirely worthless as a commodity ; and while readil}' admit- 
ting the fact, he has still continued to follow the old and universal 
plan of curing, for want of something better. 

■ We now present a device by which he can cure the gathered leaves 
alone, and let the stalk remain in the field to enrich the land. 

We will enumerate some of the advantages gained \)j its use : 

First. — Economy of room. By putting a larger quantity on a 
hanger and an increased number of hangers in a barn, you are en- 
abled to cure at least four times the usual quantity in the same barn. 

Second. — It takes less time and less heat to cure this four times 
as much, than one house full by the old process. 

Third. — It takes less time to gather and prepare it for market. 

Fourth. — In curing, it saves at least three fourths of the coal or 
fuel, and as much in time. 

Fifth. — It saves all the trouble of stripping after it is cured, and 
one half the trouble in assorting. 

Sixth. — It enables 3'ou to employ cheap labor in gathering, therebj^ 
saving nearly one half the usual expense. 

Seventli. — It saves the tearing and bruising of the leaves, and use- 
less weight consequent upon the pi-esence of the stalk. 

Eighth. — It allows you to save the leaves as they ripen, and let the 
green ones remain to mature. 

NintJi. — It saves ever?/ leaf in the crop, and leaves no waste or 
rubbish. 



14 

Tenth. — There is much less danger of injiuy from " running," on 
account of the absence of the stalk. 

Eleventh. — It improves the quality and increases the iveight^ by 
preventing the sap from forcing the oil, gum, or other valuable prop- 
erties of the leaf, back into the stalk. 

Twelfth. — It enables the planter to cure his tobacco thoroughly, 
and greatly improves the color and texture. 

By the use of this hanger in air-curing, all of these advantages are 
gained, except the saving of fuel ; and for this claim we substitute 
one of vast importance to all who cure their tobacco in this manner, 
which is, the avoidance of " pole-sweat," or rotting of the stem and 
leaf while curing. 



PREPAEATIONS FOR CURING ON THE SHELTON HANGER. 

This device is made either by attaching wire to the sticks now in 
use, or to others made for the purpose. 

Cut the wire the length of the stick, and attach it at the centre, 
either by giving it one turn around the stick, or passing it through a 
hole made with a brad-awl, and giving it two or three twists, leaving 
the wire parallel with the stick, with the ends in opposite directions. 
The wire may be attached to any part of the stick, though we recom- 
mend attachino; it at the centre. 



SCAFFOLD. 

When read}^ to commence " priming" or gathering your crop, erect 
a scaffold near the barn, on which to hang the tobacco after it is 
strung. This may be constructed of poles, scantling or other mate- 
rial, and supported by forked sticks or horses. These poles should 
be the same distance apart as those in the barn. A barn 10x16, with 
four " rooms," six full tiers and a roof tier, will contain one thousand 
hangers filled with tobacco. A scaffold ma}^ be built to hold this 
number or less, as the tobacco can be removed to the barn whenever 
the scaffold is fall. 



PREPARATIONS FOR STRINGING. 

Support the hangers on two upright posts or sticks, having notches 
in the ends to keep the hangers in position. Place two hangers paral- 
lel with each other, and two feet apart ; then construct a table or 



15 



bench, about four feet in length and two in width, near each end of 
the hangers. The following diagram ilhistratcs the scaffold, hangers, 
tables and position of operators : — 






■I i"™ii" wtWiM'jj'.BWBTOaa 



o 



< 



.'•:■:: oa 

I ■ ■ ■ I ■ I ^ O 

: . ; • ts 

; j i i I (/) 




Operator. 
/ 

® Hanger. 





® 




s 






® 


«) 




«) 



J_»- 


(D 




9j 


® 


® 




® 



GATHERING THE CROP. 

If the plant is fully ripe, remove all the leaves at once, keeping 
the stems together, and transport them to the scaffold with a sled, 
wagon, barrow, basket, or in any way most convenient. 

When a plant is only partially ripe, if you desire to make a fine, 
uniform crop, remove only the ripe leaves, leaving the others to 
mature. 

When the leaves are about ripe, thej^ present a spotted appearance 
and become brittle. By bending them short, they will break before 
doubling. 



STRINGING THE LEAVES. 

As the leaves are brought from the field, place them on the tables 
with the stems, or butts, toward the operators ; string them by 
passing the end of the wire through the stems ; let the first leaf hang 
on one side of the stick, the second on the opposite side, and the 
third on the same side as the first. 

Continue iu this manner until the stick is full, allowing sufficient 
space at the ends to rest on the tier-poles. 

We have strung and cured from one hundred and twenty to one 



16 

hundred and tliirt}- leaves on a single hanger ; but would not recom- 
mend stringing more than one hundred average leaves on a four-feet 
hanger, as they will cure in less time and with less heat than a 
larger number. 

Two persons can string on one hanger at the same time. As soon 
as a hanger is filled, place it on the scaflbld and proceed with another 
in the same manner. An ordinary/ "hand" will string one hundred 
hangers per day, while a more active person, with little experience, 
will string one hundred and twenty-five or upward. 



CUKING " GOLD LEAF." 

The bright, lemon-col ore .1 tobacco, used for fan 03^ wrappers, should 
be cured with charcoal or flues. The finest quality of this is raised 
in Virginia, North Carolina, and portions of Kentucky, Tennessee 
and Missouri, and is cured in the following manner : — 

Fill the barn (placing the hangers about five inches apart) and 
hang your thermometer on one of the lower tiers, near the centre. 
Start 3^our fires so as to produce an uniform heat of about ninety 
degrees, Fahrenheit, and continue this temperature until the tobacco 
becomes sufliciently 3'ellow. 

No exact time can be given for 3^ellowing, as tobacco which con- 
tains a superabundance of sap, or is very large, requires more time 
than that which is smaller or has less sap. 

An ordinary crop will require from twenty-four to thirt3--six hours. 
Do not allow it to become real bright yellow before raising the heat, 
as it continues to yellow for several hours after. 

Now raise the heat tliree degrees ]}er hour until j^ou arrive at a tem- 
perature of one hundred and ten degrees, and remain at this point 
until the ends of the leaves curl slightl3' ; after which, continue to 
advance at the same rate as before {three degrees per hour) until 3'ou 
arrive at one hundred and twenty. To prevent " sweating" during 
this time, the safest plan that can be adopted is, to keep the door open. 
It is not necessar3^ to keep wide open, though there is no objection 
to its remaining so, except that it requires more fuel to secure the 
heat desired. At the beginning of the season, in curing the first 
tobacco in each bai-n, or in curing Jieavy or green tobacco, this plan 
should invariably be adopted, otherwise the dampness will endanger 
its injur3' from sweating. 

Having arrived at one hundred and twenty, the door should now 
be closed ; and under favorable circumstances ma3' be closed at the 



17 

start, but must be opened often while advancing from ninety-five to 
one hundred and ten degrees. 

If sweating commences (which may be known by the leaves becom- 
ing damp and pliable), raise the heat and open the door, for the pur- 
pose of creating a current of hot air, which will soon cause it to dis- 
appear. 

The leaf should now be cured before arriving at a temperature of one 
hundred and thirt}^ ; therefore advance only at the rate of tioo degrees 
per hour for the next five hours. Then, in curing the stem, raise the 
\iQSii five degrees per hour uniW you arrive at a temperature of from 
one hundred and sixty-five to one hundred and seventy-five degrees. 
By this time the stems should be thoroughly cured ; but if not, go 
no higher, but continue the heat, at the highest point reached, until 
they are. 

We condense the instructions for regulating the heat, in the form 
of a table for reference : 

Remain at 90° until sufficiently j-ellow. 
Advance from OO'^ to 120'^, 3'^ per hour. 

" " 120° " 130°, 2° " " 

u u 130° .. 165° or 175°, 5° " " 

Usually the leaves begin to curl at the ends by the time one hun- 
dred and ten is reached, which makes it unnecessary to stop at this 
point. 

This table is simple, and as reliable as any that can be given. 
There are cases when crops are not in ordinary condition ; then no 
table can be followed successfully. If you see the face side of the 
leaves turning a reddish-brown color, the heat must be increased a 
little ; while, on the other hand, if they begin to show reddish spots 
near the edges and on both sides, you have too much heat. While 
advancing from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and thirty 
(in curing the leaf), care must be taken that you do not lower the 
temperature below the highest point reached. Never go above one 
hundred and eighty degrees, unless you desire to scorch your tobacco ; 
which, some claim, improves the flavor, though it injures the color. 
In curing with charcoal, a barn 16x16 will require nine fires; one 
18x18, twelve fires, and one 20x20, sixteen fires, so arranged as to 
distribute the heat evenly. If the wind should blow heavily against 
one side of the barn, raise the fires on that side a little above the 
others, and thus partially counteract its eflfect. 

After curing, close the barn tightlj' in order to keep the tobacco 
dry. 



18 

CURING SHIPPING TOBACCO. 

Let it remain in the barn or on the scaffold for three or four days, 
or until it begins to 3'ellow ; then make slow fires of logs, so arranged 
as to blaze but little. Care should be taken that the tobacco does 
not sweat from too much heat ; but if it should, proceed as with bright 
wrappers. 

" Houseburn " is rot,, caused bj' heating the tobacco by overcrowd- 
ing. 

If it should heat before firing, start the fires at once. After the 
leaves are well dried, increase the heat until the stems are cured ; 
providing you do not go above a temperature of one hundred and 
seventy-five degrees in so doing. The dark, heav}- shippiug tobacco 
is cured by firing immediately after it is housed. 

SUN-CURING. 

This requires an abundance of scaffolds, and well-ventilated houses. 
The latter can be made of any desired length, but onl}^ as wide as 
will give free ventilation. The scaffold should be on the side giving 
most shelter from the winds, while it secures the full heat of the 
sun ; and near the house, that the tobacco may be readily transferred 
from one to the other. The best results are obtained when the tem- 
perature is from sixty-five to seventy-five degrees, with a certain de- 
gree of moisture in the atmosphere. When the tobacco is on the 
scaffolds, protect it from the winds. If you have a very hot, dry day, 
which will cure it too rapidly to produce the desired color, close 
up the hangers on the scaflbld, and it will have a tendency to " slow " 
the process. Four or five days is enough on the scaffold ; then put 
it into a well-lighted and well-ventilated house, where it should be 
kept and thoroughly cured b}' opening the doors and Avindows wlien- 
ever the weather is favorable. After it is cured, close up the house 
and let the tobacco remain until you are I'cady to assort it. 

AIR-CURING. 

In air-curing, house your tobacco immediately after gathering ; and 
during favorable weather, open your doors and ventilators that the air 
may circulate freely. It is necessary to exclude the rain and damp- 
ness, which materially damage the tobacco and injure its color. After 
it is nearly cured, do not give it full ventilation during the prevalence 
of high winds ; a stove is very useful in preventing too much damp- 
ness, in case of continued wet weather. 



19 

SWEATING OR FERMEXTING. 

Cigar tobacco is subjected to a process of fermentation, called 
" sweating," which should be carefully conducted, for on this depends 
the color, and, in a large degree, the flavor of the tobacco. Place it in 
lieaps about six feet in diameter, and cover them with blankets or 
anything that will press lightl}- and exclude the air. In about twen- 
ty-four liours it will commence to ferment ; and when it becomes so 
hot inside that the hand cannot well bear it, break up tlie heaps and 
repack, placing the heated tobacco on the outside, and again cover 
with cloths. Repeat until all the heat is gone, which generally takes 
from five to six weeks. 

ASSORTING. 

The variety of tobacco grown, and the market for which it is in- 
tended, must largel}' govern the planter during this operation. It 
should be performed when the leaves are moist enough to handle 
without being injured. The usual custom is to make but three grades, 
M'hich are distinguished b}' different names, such as first, second and 
third qualities, manufacturing, shipping and lugs, or bright, medium 
and dull. 

These grades or qualities are principally composed of ripe, over- 
ripe and unripe leaves at the time of gathering. 

If you tie it in bundles or " hands " (which we believe to be work 
thrown away, besides injuring one of the best leaves in each bundle), 
form them with from six to ten leaves each, of uniform length and 
color. 

BULKIN^G. 

If your iiouse has a grouud-floor, citlier lay down boards or build 
raised platforms throe or four feet in width, and construct perpendic- 
ular ends or bulkheads, to keep the tobacco in position. Commence 
at one end. and after straightening out the tobacco, lay a row on one 
side the full length of the platform, with the stems out and evenly 
arranged. Then \ay a row on the opposite side, allowing the ends of 
the leaves to lap over those of the first row about five inches, and so 
continue to pack closely. Place boards and weights on top of the 
bulk, leavinr/ the sides open. This will keep the leaves moist, and, at 
the same time, allow the stems to become dr}' enough for packing. 
While in bulk examine it occasionally, and if it should heat, or not 
dry sufficiently, overhaul and repack it loosely without weighting the 
top. 



20 

PACiaNG. 

When the large or heavy portion of the stem becomes dry enough 
to break easily (with the leaf yet soft and pliable) , the tobacco is in 
proper condition for packing. If any portion of it is too soft or has 
an ill smell, it should be made sweet and drj^ by a few hours' sun. 

If it has to be shipped a great distance, we would recommend pack- 
ing in hogsheads, placing each layer across the one below it. To- 
bacco of fine quality should not be pressed too hard, as it will surely 
be injured thereby. 



COMPAEATIVE STATEMENTS. 

In order to show more clearly the advantages gained by using the 
Patent Hanger, we make the following comparative statements of the 
two methods of gathering and curing ; and though they only apply 
to one section of the country, as far as prices of labor and coal are 
concerned, yet the percentage saved will be nearly the same in all 
cases ; consequently the amount saved will be greater in sections 
where labor and fuel are more expensive. A barn 16x16 will contain 
two thousand pounds of tobacco on the Shelton Hangers, and can be 
cured with one hundred bushels of coal in two days or less ; Avhile to 
cure the same quantity on the stalk requires four barns, or four cur- 
ings in one barn of three days each, which will consume at least one 
hundred bushels of coal at each curing, or four hundred bushels in 
all, and require the attention of a man for twelve days and nights. 



COST OP GATHERING AND CURING ON SHELTON HANGER. 

To gather and cure one barn containing two thousand pounds after 
curing requires, — 

Gathering. 

3 men one day (® 75 cents . . . . . . . ^2 25 

17 women and children fa) 40 cents . . . . . 6 80 

Curing. 

1 man two days and nights fa) 75 cents each . . . 3 00 

100 bushels coal fa) 5 cents . . . . . . . 5 00 

Total, $17 05 



18 00 


20 00 


$56 00 


17 05 



21 

CUKING ON THE STALK. 

To cure two thousand pounds by the old i^rocess will require four 
barns, and the cost will be as follows : — 

Gathering. 
24 men one day (a) 75 cents (to fill four barns) . . . $18 00 

Curing. 
4 men three days and nights (a) lb cents each 
400 bushels coal (100 at each barn) (a) 5 cents 

Total, 
Cost of curing on Patent Hanger .... 

Difference in cost of curing 2000 pounds .... $38 95 

By using the Patent Hanger you can save from sixty-jive to seventy 
per cent of the usual cost of gathering and curing your crop, be- 
sides increasing its value from eight to ten per cent, by producing a 
more uniform color, improving the texture and increasing the weight. 
There are other advantages to be derived from its use, all of which 
will become apparent to those who try it. For instance, the cost of 
hauling the green stalks from the field to the barn is wholly avoided. 
This is no small item, and liad it been included in the cost of gather- 
ing by the old process, would have made a still greater difference in 
favor of the Hanger. However, we do not claim to save all the ex- 
pense of gathering and curing a crop. 

COAL AND AIR CUEING. 

Growers of tobacco in nearly all parts of the country (except New 
England) who have formeii}' practised air-curing, are gradually adopt- 
ing the quicker and more profitable method of curing in two or three 
days by artificial heat. B^^ the latter mode of curing, tobacco is much 
improved in body, texture and color. Even in the New England 
States, we find that air-curing does not fully answer their require- 
ments. At a recent meeting of the Connecticut Valley Agricultural 
Institute, Professor Stockbridge, of Amherst College, in speaking of 
air-curing, said, " The curing process is defective ; by the slow, gradual 
process much of the essential narcotic oil is lost." He also referred 
to " a new system of curing, largely adopted in other States," and said, 
" This artificial curing retains all the virtue of the tobacco, in fact 
increases its essential oils." 



22 

EXPERIMENT IN WEIGHT. 

We now give yon the actual resnlt of an experiment made during 
the past season, for the express purpose of deciding this question : 
Does tobacco cured off the stalk lose or gain in weight ? Some con- 
tended that it would lose, others that it would gain ; while a majority 
of those who expressed their opinion on the subject thought it would 
make no difference in the weight, whether cured on or off the stalk. 
Although convinced by the laws of nature that it must necessarily 
gain, we only claimed, previous to making this experiment, that it lost 
nothing. It is evident that each leaf, either in dying or drying, 
feeds back a large portion of its substance through the same channels 
that supplied it. The most casual observer of nature cannot have 
failed to notice this fact. The grass, the weeds, the corn, and every 
tree, shrub or plant, asserts it in the most unmistakable manner. 
Tobacco cannot be exempt from this law of nature. 

The fine or thin portions of the leaf are the first to cure ; next the 
smaU and large fibres, and lastly the stem. 

When cured on the stalk, the stalk is the last to cure, and much 
of that which is necessary to give the leaf "body" is forced back 
into the stalk, causing it to weigh more, and the leaf less. 

Again, in curing by artificial heat, the longer time tobacco is 
"• fired " or subjected to heat after the leaf is cured, the less it will 
weigh ; therefore, in firing, the extra time required to cure the stalk, 
you are lessening the weight of the leaves. In making this test, two 
hundred average-size plants were selected, divided into two lots of 
one hundred each, and weighed. Lot No. 1 weighed 231 lbs. 3 oz. ; 
No. 2, 222 lbs. 13 oz. The leaves were stripped from Lot No. 1, 
and cured on the Shelton Hangers, and the stalks were cured sep- 
aratel3^ Lot No. 2 was cui'ed on the stalks, with the following 
results : — 

CURED ON SHELTON HANGERS. 

Weight of 100 plants before curing 

" leaves and stalks after curing 
Shrinkage in curing .... 
Weight of stalks after curing . 

" leaves " . . 



. 251 lbs. 


3 oz. 


. 38 lbs. 


13 oz. 


. 192 lbs. 


6 oz. 


13 lbs. 


G oz. 


25 lbs. 


7 oz. 



. 222 lbs. 


13 oz. 


. 37 lbs. 


10 oz. 


. 185 lbs. 


3 oz. 


. 15 lbs. 


5 oz. 


. 22 lbs. 


5 oz. 



2?! 

CURED ON STALKS. 

Weight of 100 plants before curing 

" leaves and stalks after curing 
Shrinkage in curing .... 

Weight of stalks after curing . 

" leaves " ... 

Thus you will notice a difference of 3 pounds 2 ounces in favor of 
Lot No. 1, cured on our Patent Hangers. In reply, you will naturally 
say that this Ibt weighed 8 pounds 6 ounces more than No. 2 before 
curing, which is very true ; but we find, by dividing the weight of the 
green plants (231 pounds 3 ounces) by the number of pounds of 
cured leaves (25 pounds 7 ounces), that it required 9 pounds Ij 
ounces of green plants to produce one pound of cured leaves ; and 
shows that the difference in the two lots of green tobacco (8 pounds 
6 ounces) was not sufficient to produce a pound of cured leaves ; 
though, allowing it had been, there is yet a difference of 2 pounds 2 
ounces in our favor, or a gain of more than eight per cent in weight 
over the old method of curing. 

Any ftirmer can easily make a similar test and satisfy himself as to 
the truth of this statement. In making an experiment of this kind, 
if you cure by artificial heat, and both lots in one barn at the same 
time, do not forget to remove that on the Hangers after it is cured, 
instead of allowiug it to remain while the stalks of the other lot are 
curing. 



24 



TESTIMONIALS FROM PROMINENT TOBACCO 
GROWERS. 

Marshall, Madison Co., N.C, 

November G, 1875. 
E. J. Aston, Esq., 

Secretary Shelton Tobacco Curing Co., Aslieville, N.C. 

Dear Sir, — In reply to your request for the result 'of my experi- 
ence with " The Shelton Tobacco Hanger," I have to say that I have 
given it a fair trial on three barns of tobacco, and take pleasure in 
pronouncing it a perfect victory over the old method of curing, for 
the following reasons : — 

I can put a crop into the barns in less time, in better order, and at 
much less expense, than in the old way. I can cure at least twice as 
much in a barn with much less time, labor and fuel. When cured, 
the stripping is done, and much less time and labor is required to 
sort it. There is also less danger of its " running." In curing with 
the Hangers the labor is so light that women and children can perform 
it.. 

Tobacco cured on the Hangers is finer in quality and more uniform 
in color than that cured on the stalk. Not a leaf is lost by your 
process ; but one leaf dropped from the Hanger in my three barns 
while curing ; and the absence of stalks and litter around the barns 
and fields makes as marked a difference to the e3^e as that of tidy 
and slovenly housekeeping. 

I may also add, that it would have Ijeen impossible for me to have 
saved m}^ crop this season with my present supply of barns, without 
the use of the " Shelton Hangers." 

Yours trul}', 

T. J. ROLLINS. 



Danville, Va., November 2, 1875. 
E. J. Aston, 

Secretary Shelton Tobacco Caring Co. 

Dear Sir, — In reply to your inquiries in regard to the " Shelton 

Tobacco Hanger," I will say, that I have tried it practically^, and am 

entirely satisfied that it is a useful invention. I intend to use it more 

extensively in future. 

Very respectfully, 

W. T. SUTHERLIN. 



25 

HousTONviLLE, Iredell Co., N.C, 

November 27, 1875. 
Mr, E. J. Aston, 

Aslieville N.C. 
Dear Sir, — Your letter is at liand. In answer, I will say, I did 
not succeed in getting my wire in time to give the " Hanger" as fair 
a trial as I wished, I tried one barn only, but am satisfied it is a 
great improvement on the old way of curing tobacco, the time being 
so much shorter in curing the leaf alone. 

The economy in coal is also an item to the tobacco growlers. From 
my experience this year, I shall follow 'it up. My neighbors are 
pleased with what has been tried. 

Yours respectfully, 

JOHN H, DALTON. 



[From one who contended that tobacco would lose in weigJit when 
cured off the stalk,] 

Pea Ridge, Tennessee, 
November 29, 1875. 
Mr, E. J, Aston. 

Dear Sir, — I tried the Hanger on a small scale, and only with a 
view of testing the weight. I took 172 pounds of green tobacco, of 
uniform quality, cut in the usual way, and Aveighed off 86 pounds, 
and stripped off' the leaves and put up in your way. The other half 
I hung up in the old Avny, After stripping the cured tobacco I 
weighed each separately, and cannot perceive the least ditference iii 
weight. I am therefore prepared to say that there is no loss by 
reason of the leaves being stripped off while green. 

Yours, &c,, 

M. E, WILCOX. 



Riverside, Buncombe Co., N.C, 

November 23, 1875. 
E. J. Aston, Esq., 

Sec. S. T. C. Co. 

1 take pleasure in complying with your request for a detailed 

statement of my experience w^ith the " Shelton Tobacco Hangers." I 

cured the whole crop of about fort^^-four acres on the Hangers with a 

force of four men and eleven women and children, who put it on the 



26 

Hangers and cured it in sixteen working da3^s. It cost for labor 
$153.47. I used in curing about one tliirdof the charcoal that would 
have been required the old way. 

I cured 1150 Hangers in one 16-foot barn (six tiers in the bod}^), 
the tobacco on each Hanger weighing two and one half pounds, mak- 
ing 2875 pounds of net tobacco, which was cured in three days with 
150 bushels of coal. 

The tobacco is cured bright and of splendid body. In fact the 
crop is the finest I ever made. After a day's experience a brisk hand 
can string one hundred sticks, which will make two hundred and fifty 
pounds net cured tobacco. There is no doubt in my mind of the 
absolute success of this invention, as it adds to the weight, cures the 
tobacco neater and brighter, and at half the expense. 

Very respectfully', 

C. H. SORRELS. 



Salisbury Fair, October 24, 1875. 
This is to certify that I have used the " Shelton Tobacco Hanger " 
with perfect success. I fully endorse it for all the inventor claims. 

PHILLIP SOMERS. 



Berea, Granville Co., N.C., Dec. 4, 1875. 

Mr. S. C. Shelton, 

AsheviUe, N.C. 

Dear Sir, — I used your Patent Tobacco Hanger in curing one barn 
of primings, and succeeded far beyond my expectations. I think it 

is a very good invention for curing tobacco uniformly bright 

I realized $10.00 per cwt. for primings, whicli, had they been cured 
in the usual way, would not have brought more than $2.50 or $3.00 

per cwt. 

Very respectfully, 

WESLEY S. LYON. 



Our Hanger received a diploma at the Agricultural Fair lately held 
in Salisbury, N.C. At the Virginia State Fair, held at Richmond, 
our application was received too late to allow of its being regularly 
entered, but the Committee kindl}' gave us permission and space to 
exhibit it, and from the Examining Committee we received honorable 



27 

mention of its merits; which was all that could be given under the 
circumstances. 

FARM RIGHTS. 

Farm rights, authorizing the holder to use one thousand Hangers 
(or less), for a single year, $5.00, and $2.50 for each additional thou- 
sand. These rights or licenses can be obtained from any of our au- 
thorized agents, or on application, by mail or otherwise, to the Sec- 
retary of the Company. Remit money by draft, monej'^ order or 
registered letter. No license genuine unless signed by the President 
and Secretary of the Company, and countersigned by the agent who 
issues it. 

WIRE. 

We recommend the use of No. 17 galvanized wire in making the 
Hangers, as this size seems most suitable, and the galvanizing pre- 
vents it from rusting. The cost of this will be about $5.00 per 
thousand sticks. If the wire should vary one or two sizes from that 
recommended, it will make no material difference. In procuring your 
license, either from the Company or any of its agents, you will re- 
ceive information of the nearest or most convenient point for pur- 
chasing wire. 

AGENTS. 

Responsible agents are wanted in each county to introduce our 
Patent Hanger, with whom liberal arrangements will be made. 
For particulars, address 

SHELTON TOBACCO CURING CO., 

ASHEVILLE, N.C. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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